Spring Lawn Weeds in the USA: How to Identify, Control, and Prevent Them

The spring weeds that pop up in your lawn depend on where you live, your grass type, soil temperature, compaction, moisture, and even the amount of shade you have.

Cool-season lawns often battle winter annuals such as annual bluegrass (Poa annua), chickweed (Stellaria media), and henbit (Lamium amplexicaule).

Warm-season lawns gear up for summer annuals like crabgrass (Digitaria spp.) and sedges like yellow nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus).

The key to control?

Understand the life cycle. Apply the right product at the right time. Build thicker turf. Let’s break it down by region, lawn condition, and weed type — and then I’ll show you exactly how to prevent and eliminate them.

Why Spring Is “Weed Reveal Season”

Here’s something most homeowners don’t realize: A lot of “spring weeds” didn’t start in spring. Winter annuals germinated last fall. They survived winter. Now they’re finishing strong while your grass is still waking up.

Meanwhile, summer annuals are sitting in the soil waiting for consistent soil temperatures of 55°F. Spring isn’t when weeds begin. It’s when they show themselves.

 

Related: Which Lawn Weeds Have Purple Flowers? 

 

The Most Common Spring Weeds

Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua)

Light green, clumping grassy weed that produces white seed heads even at low mowing heights. Often stands out against darker turf in early spring. If you see it in April, the real battle was last October.

Loves:

• Thin turf

• Compacted soil

• Cool-season lawns.

Prevention: Fall pre-emergent (Prodiamine or Dimension) before soil temperatures drop below 70°F.
Spring Control: Limited selective options depending on turf type. (Learn more in the How to Control Spring Weeds section further on.)

Chickweed (Stellaria media)

Low-growing, mat-forming broadleaf with small white star-shaped flowers. Spreads across thin areas quickly. It’s a winter annual that germinates in the fall and explodes in early spring.

Loves:

• Thin turf

• Moist soil

• Shade.

Control: Selective broadleaf herbicide (Tenacity or Celsius WG, depending on turf type).
Prevention: Fall pre-emergent and improved turf density.

Henbit (Lamium amplexicaule)

Upright winter annual with purple tubular flowers and square stems (mint family). Often confused with purple deadnettle, but both behave similarly.

Control: Selective broadleaf herbicide while actively growing.
Prevention: Fall pre-emergent barrier and improved turf density.

Purple Deadnettle (Lamium purpureum)

Similar to henbit but with more triangular leaves and purple-tinged upper foliage.

Loves:

• Bare soil

• Cool-season turf

• Early spring conditions.

Important: Another winter annual that established months earlier.

Control: Broadleaf herbicide labeled for your turf type.
Prevention: Fall pre-emergent and overseeding thin areas.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)

Deep taproot perennial with bright yellow flowers and puffball seed heads. Removing the top growth does not kill the taproot.

Loves:

• Thin turf

• Compacted soil

• Low mowing height.

Control: Selective broadleaf herbicide (Tenacity for cool-season, Celsius WG for warm-season).
Prevention: Maintain dense turf and proper mowing height.

White Clover (Trifolium repens)

Low-growing perennial with white flowers and three-leaf clusters. Clover often indicates low nitrogen. It thrives where turf fertility is weak.

Loves:

• Low nitrogen soil

• Thin turf

• Moderate moisture.

Control: Selective broadleaf herbicide.
Prevention:  Balanced fertilization program (Humic Max 16-0-8 or Complete 14-7-14).

Common Groundsel (Senecio vulgaris)

Small yellow flowers with fluffy seed heads. Upright winter annual. Produces seeds quickly if not controlled early.

Loves:

• Disturbed soil

• Thin turf

• Early spring conditions.

Control: Broadleaf herbicide while small.
Prevention: Fall pre-emergent.

Crabgrass (Digitaria spp.)

Spreading grassy weed with wide blades and a low growth habit. Germinates in spring when soil temperatures reach ~55°F.

Loves:

• Thin turf

• Warm soil (~55°F and rising)

• Low mowing height.

Control: Drive XLR8 (cool-season), Celsius WG (warm-season) when young.
Prevention: Early spring pre-emergent (Prodiamine or Dimension).

Yellow Nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus)

Bright green, upright sedge that grows faster than turf. Triangular stem. Not controlled by standard broadleaf herbicides.

Loves:

• Wet soil

• Poor drainage

• Overwatering.

Control: SedgeHammer® or Certainty.
Prevention: Improve drainage and irrigation timing.

Purple Nutsedge (Cyperus rotundus)

Darker green than yellow nutsedge. More aggressive. Produces reddish-purple seed heads. Spreads aggressively through underground tubers.

Loves:

• Warm climates

• Wet or poorly drained soil

• Compacted turf.

Important: Standard broadleaf herbicides will not control it, and it is often harder to eliminate than yellow nutsedge.

Control: Sedge-specific herbicide (like SedgeHammer® or Certainty).
Prevention: Improve drainage, reduce overwatering, and relieve compaction.

Green Kyllinga (Kyllinga brevifolia)

Low-growing sedge that forms dense mats. Produces small, round “button-like” seed heads. Often mistaken for grass at first glance.

Loves:

• Moist soil

• Compacted areas

• Warm-season turf.

Important: It spreads quickly once established and will not respond to typical broadleaf weed killers.

Control: Sedge-specific herbicide (like SedgeHammer® or Certainty).
Prevention: Improve soil structure, reduce excess moisture, and maintain thick turf.

Goosegrass (Eleusine indica)

Low-growing grassy weed with a flattened rosette appearance. Often mistaken for crabgrass.

Loves:

• Compacted soil

• High traffic areas

• Warm-season lawns.

Important: Often appears in compacted zones near sidewalks and driveways.

Control: Celsius WG or Fusilade II (check turf label).
Prevention: Early spring pre-emergent and core aeration.

Spotted Spurge (Euphorbia maculata)

Low-growing broadleaf with reddish stems and milky sap. Spreads rapidly once established.

Loves:

• Hot soil

• Compacted areas

• Thin turf.

Control: Broadleaf herbicide (Tenacity or Celsius WG, depending on turf).
Prevention: Improve soil health, maintain dense turf, and apply pre-emergent.

Hairy Bittercress (Cardamine hirsuta)

Low-growing winter annual with tiny white flowers and seed pods that burst and spread several feet.

Loves:

• Compacted soil

• Thin turf

• Early spring conditions.

Control: Broadleaf herbicide while small.
Prevention: Fall pre-emergent + aeration.

Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea)

Low-growing perennial broadleaf with scalloped leaves and purple-blue flowers. Spreads aggressively through creeping stems (stolons) that root at each node. Often called “creeping Charlie.” It spreads laterally across the soil surface, so even small patches can quickly form dense mats. Pulling usually leaves rooted fragments behind.

Loves:

• Shady areas

• Moist soil

• Thin turf

• Poor air circulation.

Control: Selective broadleaf herbicide labeled for your turf type (Tenacity for cool-season, Celsius WG for warm-season). Repeat applications may be necessary.
Prevention: Improve turf density, increase sunlight penetration, reduce excess moisture, and maintain proper mowing height.

 

Related: Which Lawn Weeds Have White Flowers? 

 

Understanding Weed Life Cycles

If you only remember one thing from this article, make it this:

Weed control is about timing, not just products.

You don’t control weeds by spraying harder. You control them by understanding when they live, grow, and die.

All lawn weeds fall into three main life cycle categories:

• Winter Annuals

• Summer Annuals

• Perennials.

Once you know which type you’re dealing with, the strategy becomes obvious.

Winter Annuals

These are the sneaky ones.

They germinate in fall — usually when soil temperatures drop below about 70°F — and quietly establish small root systems before winter hits.

They sit low to the ground all winter, then explode in early spring while your turf is still waking up.

Common Winter Annuals

• Annual bluegrass 

• Chickweed 

• Henbit 

• Common groundsel.

Why They Look So Aggressive in Spring

Because they’ve had a head start.

While your grass was dormant, they were developing roots. By March or April, they’re already mature and producing seeds. That’s why they feel like they “came out of nowhere.” They didn’t. They were there all winter.

Best Control Strategy

The real control window is fall.

• Apply a fall pre-emergent before winter annual germination.

• Maintain dense turf going into winter.

Spring post-emergent can help clean up what’s visible, but by then, many winter annuals are already setting seed.

Summer Annuals

These are the warm-weather opportunists. They wait for soil temperatures to consistently hit about 55°F in the top 1–2 inches of soil. That’s when they germinate. Then they grow aggressively through the summer heat and die at the first frost.

Common Summer Annuals

• Crabgrass

• Goosegrass

• Spotted spurge.

Why They Love Thin Lawns

Summer annuals need:

• Sunlight hitting the soil

• Warm temperatures

• Open space.

Thin turf + rising soil temps = perfect conditions.

Best Control Strategy

Pre-emergent in early spring. Timing matters more than anything. Apply before soil temps consistently hit 55°F.

If you miss that window:

• You’re now in post-emergent mode.

• Control becomes more difficult.

• Turf stress increases.

Think of pre-emergent like a shield. Once weeds break through it, you’re playing defense.

Perennials

Perennials are long-term residents. They don’t complete their life cycle in one year. They come back every season from established roots, rhizomes, or stolons.

Common Perennials

• Dandelion 

• White clover 

• Ground ivy 

• Yellow nutsedge.

Why They’re Harder to Eliminate

Because they store energy underground.

• Dandelions have deep taproots.

• Ground ivy spreads through creeping stems.

• Nutsedge produces underground tubers (nutlets).

If you only remove the top growth, they regrow.

Best Control Strategy

• Target actively growing plants.

• Use selective post-emergents appropriate for your turf type.

• Follow label directions for repeat applications if necessary.

• Strengthen turf to reduce reinfestation.

Perennials require persistence, not panic.

Why Life Cycle Knowledge Changes Everything

Weed Type	Germination	Best Prevention	Best Active Control
Winter Annual	Fall	Fall pre-emergent	Early spring post-emergent
Summer Annual	Spring (~55°F soil)	Early spring pre-emergent	Early post-emergent
Perennial	Varies	Dense turf	Targeted post-emergent

When homeowners struggle with weeds year after year, it’s usually because:

• They’re applying products at the wrong time.

• They’re confusing annuals with perennials.

• They’re skipping prevention and reacting instead.

Once you understand life cycles, weed control becomes predictable.

 

Related: When to Start Mowing Your Lawn in Spring 

 

How to Get Rid of Spring Weeds (and Keep Them from Coming Back)

Most lawns don’t have a weed problem; they have a timing problem.

Before you grab a sprayer, slow down and ask:

• What type of weed is it?

• What stage is it in?

• Is this a prevention issue or a cleanup issue?

Because if you use the wrong product at the wrong time, you’re just wasting effort.

Step 1: Decide — Prevention or Post-Emergent?

This is where strategy matters.

Pre-Emergent Strategy (The Smart Move)

Best for crabgrass, goosegrass, spurge, and annual bluegrass (in fall). Pre-emergent creates a barrier in the soil that prevents seeds from establishing roots.

Recommended Pre-Emergents (Cool & Warm Season)

• Prodiamine 0-0-7 with Fertilizer

 

prodiamine-38-pre-emergent-herbicide-with-fertilizer-0-0-7-50lb

 

• Dimension 0-0-7 with Fertilizer

 

dimension-15-pre-emergent-herbicide-with-fertilizer-0-0-7

 

• Prodiamine 65 WDG (liquid option without fertilizer)

 

prodiamine-65-wdg-brand-alternative-barricade®-65wdg

 

Pre-Emergent (Warm-Season Only)

• Specticle® FLO Pre-Emergent Herbicide (the top choice pre-emergent for annual bluegrass in warm-season lawns)

 

specticle-flo-pre-emergent-herbicide

 

When to Apply

For summer annuals like crabgrass:

• Apply before soil temperatures consistently reach 55°F.

For winter annuals like annual bluegrass:

• Apply in the fall when soil temperatures drop below 70°F.

Once weeds have broken through the barrier, pre-emergent won’t kill them. It only prevents new germination.

Post-Emergent Strategy (Cleanup Mode)

Now you’re in cleanup mode. The key is spraying when weeds are:

• Actively growing

• Not drought-stressed

• Not about to be mowed.

Every spring weed falls into one of three control categories:

Broadleaf Weeds

Examples:

• Dandelion 

• Chickweed 

• Henbit 

• White clover

• Ground ivy

• Spotted spurge.

Broadleaf weeds have wide leaves and visible flowers. These are typically the easiest to control. Use a selective broadleaf herbicide labeled safe for your grass type.

Herbicides for Broadleaf Weeds in Cool-Season Turf (Fescue, Kentucky Bluegrass, Ryegrass)

• Tenacity Herbicide — Combats more than 40 broadleaf and grassy weeds and is safe for most cool-season lawns. It can be used as a pre-emergent, too.

 

tenacity-herbicide

 

• Triad Select 3-Way Herbicide — Excellent beginner-friendly broadleaf control. Safe for cool and warm-season turf.

 

broadleaf-weed-control-triad-select-3-way-herbicide

 

Herbicides for Broadleaf Weeds in Warm-Season Turf (Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine, Centipede)

• Celsius WG — One of the best broadleaf and grassy weed killer options for warm-season lawns.

 

celsius-wg-broadleaf-and-grassy-weed-control-for-warm-season-turf

 

• Recognition Herbicide — Specialty broadleaf and sedge control.

 

recognition-herbicide-broadleaf-and-sedge-weed-control-for-warm-season-turf

 

• Triad Select 3-Way Herbicide – Excellent beginner-friendly broadleaf control.

Grassy Weeds

Examples:

• Crabgrass 

• Goosegrass 

• Annual bluegrass.

These weeds look like grass, which makes control trickier. You must use products labeled safe for your turf type.

If They’re Small (1–3 Tillers)

Post-emergent control is possible and effective.

• Drive XLR8 - the best option for crabgrass control in Bermuda, Zoysia, Fescue, and Ryegrass lawns. It will also control broadleaf and other grassy weeds.

 

drive-xlr8-herbicide-crabgrass-weed-killer

 

• Tenacity — will combat grassy and broadleaf weeds.

• Celsius WG — One of the best broadleaf and grassy weed killer options for warm-season lawns.

• Certainty Turf Herbicide — the best option if you have grassy weeds and sedges in warm-season lawns.

• Velocity® PM Herbicide — the best option for annual bluegrass in cool-season lawns.

If They’re Mature

Control becomes harder. You may suppress them rather than fully eliminate them. This is why prevention is so critical for grassy weeds.

Best strategy:

• Pre-emergent in early spring

• Spot treat early if breakthrough occurs

• Improve turf density to prevent recurrence.

Crabgrass thrives in thin lawns. Fix the thin lawn, and pressure drops next year.

Controlling Annual Bluegrass in Spring

Annual bluegrass (Poa annua) is tricky. By spring, it’s mature and often produces seed heads. Spring control options are limited in many turf types.

• Velocity® PM Herbicide is one of the few herbicides safe for cool-season lawns that effectively control annual bluegrass. It handles many other grassy and broadleaf weeds.

 

velocity-pm-poa-annua-control-for-cool-season-turf

 

• Certainty Turf Herbicide is an excellent weed killer that will kill annual bluegrass, grassy weeds, and sedges.

certainty-herbicide-1-25-oz-sedge-and-poa-annua-control

 

Sedges

Example:

• Yellow nutsedge 

• Purple nutsedge

• Green kyllinga.

Sedges are neither grass nor broadleaf weeds. They require their own herbicide category. If it has a triangular stem, don’t spray it like it’s a dandelion. If you spray them with a standard weed killer, it will laugh at you and grow taller.

Apply when:

• The plant has at least 3–5 leaves

• It’s actively growing

• You avoid mowing immediately before application.

Important: Do not pull nutsedge. Pulling can stimulate additional growth from underground tubers. Control it chemically and improve drainage long-term.

Herbicides for Sedge Weeds in Both Cool- and Warm-Season Turf (Check Label)

• SedgeHammer® — Targeted nutsedge control.

 

sedgehammer®-herbicide-nutsedge-weed-killer

 

• Certainty Herbicide — Professional-grade sedge solution.

Standard broadleaf herbicides will not control sedges.

If you are battling broadleaf, grassy, and sedge weeds, we highly recommend getting one of our herbicide kits: 

• Tenacity and Sedgehammer® Herbicide Kit — This kit is designed for cool-season lawns and includes two potent weedkillers, a turf marker dye (so you can see where you have applied), and a surfactant (to help the product stick to the weed).

 

tenacity-and-sedgehammer-herbicide-kit-with-surfactant-and-dye-cool-season-grass

 

• Celsius and Certainty Herbicide Kit — This kit is designed for warm-season lawns and includes two potent weedkillers, a turf marker dye (so you can see where you have applied), and a surfactant (to help the product stick to the weed).

 

celsius-and-certainty-herbicide-kit-with-surfactant-and-dye

 

Best results happen when:

• Temperatures are between 60°F and 85°F

• Weeds are young and actively growing

• You allow 24 hours before rainfall

• You avoid mowing 2–3 days before and after application.

What to Expect

• Leaves may curl within days.

• Full control may take 1–3 weeks.

• Perennials like clover or ground ivy may need a second application.

One good application at the right time beats three rushed ones.

 

Related: The Best Four Products for Killing Weeds Without Killing Grass 

 

Step 2: Improve Lawn Health (Or They’ll Be Back)

Herbicides remove weeds. They do not fix the conditions that caused them. If you don’t correct the underlying issue, new weeds will take their place.

Improve Soil First

Mirimichi Green CarbonizPN-G™ — Improves soil structure and microbial activity. Better soil biology = deeper roots = thicker turf.

Ideal timing:

• Early spring

• Fall

• After aeration.

 

essential-g™-granular-carbon-free-shipping

 

Golf Course Lawn Carbon Kit — This kit consists of 3 products: Release ZERO™ or Release 901C™, Nutri-Kelp™, and ByoSpxtrum™.

Release ZERO™
An organic biostimulant with 10% micronized carbon that improves nutrient absorption and enhances the performance of other products applied with it. Contains no NPK, making it ideal as a soil enhancer alongside fertilizer.

Release 901C™
Everything in Release ZERO™, plus 9% nitrogen and 1% potassium. It functions as both a biostimulant and fertilizer, saving time by feeding the lawn while improving soil health.

Nutri-Kelp™
A kelp-based liquid fertilizer (1-1-4) that delivers vitamins, enzymes, and micronutrients to improve turf vigor and stress tolerance. The potassium boost helps enhance grass color and resilience.

ByoSpxtrum™
A microbial soil booster that increases beneficial soil microbes. These microbes help break down thatch and organic matter into usable nutrients, improving overall soil and plant health.

 

golf-course-lawn-carbon-kit

 

Step 3: Feed the Lawn Properly

Low fertility is one of the biggest contributors to weed pressure. White clover showing up? That’s often a nitrogen issue. Test your soil to choose the right fertilizer for your lawn.

 

mysoil-starter-pack

 

If your lawn is in good health, these fertilizers are the best to use throughout the season:

Early Spring Strength

Humic Max 16-0-8 – Lebanon Country Club

Strong early feeding with humic components to improve nutrient efficiency. Helps turf green up and thicken before crabgrass germination.

 

country-club-16-0-8-humic-max-and-mesa®-by-lebanonturf-sgn-150

 

Mid-Season Density

Complete 14-7-14 – Lebanon Country Club

Balanced nutrition that supports steady growth without overstimulating. Maintains density and reduces open soil.

 

lebanon-country-club-complete-fertilizer-14-7-14-sgn-80

 

Summer (and Winter) Stress Defense

Stress 12-0-24 – Lebanon Country Club

Higher potassium improves drought and heat tolerance. Thin, stressed turf is prime territory for summer weeds. This fertilizer helps prevent that thinning.

 

lebanon-country-club-stress-12-0-24-fertilizer

 

Best Choice for Foliar Spoon Feeding

Golf Course Lawn (20-2-3) Liquid Fertilizer with Kelp and Fulvic Acid

This custom fertilizer blend delivers excellent turf response and color in just 2-3 days. Our 20-2-3 is an ideal product for foliar spoon feeding — no need to water it in, simply spray and go on with your day!

golf-course-lawn-20-2-3-liquid-fertilizer-with-kelp-and-fulvic-acid

Related: Which Lawn Weeds Have Pink Flowers? 

 

Step 4: Avoid Common Spring Weed Control Mistakes

Let’s save you some headaches.

❌ Spraying during drought stress

❌ Mowing immediately before or after application

❌ Using the wrong product category

❌ Skipping prevention.

Spring Weed FAQs

Why do I get more weeds in early spring than in summer?

Early spring weeds often look worse because winter annuals are finishing their life cycles while turfgrass is still emerging from dormancy. Once your lawn thickens later in the season, it competes more effectively and hides minor weed pressure.

Can cold weather kill spring weeds naturally?

Light frost may damage tender weeds, but most winter annuals and perennials are cold-tolerant. Don’t rely on late cold snaps to eliminate established weeds — they usually recover.

Does mulch help prevent lawn weeds along edges?

Yes. Maintaining a thick mulch layer in landscape beds reduces weed seed germination and prevents weeds from spreading into turf edges — a common starting point for spring infestations.

Are spring weeds worse after a mild winter?

Often, yes. Mild winters allow winter annuals to establish deeper root systems and survive without significant stress, leading to heavier spring growth and seed production.

Can mowing spread weed seeds?

Yes, especially if weeds have already gone to seed. Cleaning mower decks periodically and mowing before weeds mature can reduce seed spread.

Is it better to spot-spray or blanket-spray in spring?

If weed pressure is light, spot spraying is usually sufficient and less stressful to the lawn. Blanket applications are more appropriate when weeds are widespread across large areas.

How long does it take for pre-emergent to start working?

Pre-emergent herbicides begin working once watered into the soil and activated. However, they prevent seed establishment — they won’t affect weeds that have already germinated.

Can heavy spring rain reduce pre-emergent effectiveness?

Excessive rainfall shortly after application can reduce barrier effectiveness, especially on sloped lawns. Always follow label instructions and avoid application before major storms.

Should I fertilize and apply weed control at the same time?

It depends on your turf type and timing. In some cases, combining fertilization with post-emergent control works well. However, pairing fertilization with pre-emergent requires careful timing to avoid overstimulating growth during early weed pressure.

Why do weeds grow faster than my grass in spring?

Many spring weeds establish roots in fall or have lower temperature growth thresholds than turfgrass, allowing them to outpace grass during cool early-season conditions.

Can improving soil pH reduce weed pressure?

Improper soil pH can weaken turf and reduce nutrient uptake, indirectly increasing weed pressure. A soil test can help determine if lime or sulfur adjustments are needed.

Do organic weed control methods work for spring weeds?

Cultural practices like improving turf density, mowing properly, and aerating soil are effective long-term organic strategies. However, organic post-emergent products tend to work best on very young weeds and may require repeat applications.

Why do weeds keep coming back to the same spot every year?

Recurring weed patches often indicate an unresolved underlying issue — compaction, poor drainage, shade, or low fertility — rather than a product failure.

Can pets walking on the lawn increase weed pressure?

Heavy traffic can compact soil and thin turf, creating ideal conditions for weeds like goosegrass and crabgrass to establish.

What’s the difference between selective and non-selective herbicides?

Selective herbicides target specific weed types without harming turfgrass. Non-selective herbicides kill most vegetation and should only be used in non-turf areas or for spot renovation.

 

Related: Which Lawn Weeds Have Yellow Flowers? 

 

Spring Into Action Before the Weeds Do

Spring weeds aren’t random — and they’re definitely not unstoppable. They follow predictable patterns tied to soil temperature, turf density, moisture, and stress. Once you understand that, you stop reacting and start anticipating: apply pre-emergent before soil temps hit 55°F, feed and strengthen turf before it thins, improve soil before roots struggle, and fix drainage before sedges show up. That’s the shift from spraying problems to managing a lawn — and when you manage the system, spring stops feeling like a weed battle and starts looking like progress.

Ready to battle weeds? Shop our fertilizers, weed killers, and lawn care essentials and start building the lawn you’ve always wanted — one pro tip at a time. Check out our YouTube channel for more lawn care tips!