How to Care for a St. Augustine Grass Lawn: A Complete Guide
Table of Contents
- What Is St. Augustine Grass?
- Where Does St. Augustine Grass Grow Best?
- Types of St. Augustine Grass
- Best Soils for St. Augustine Grass
- St. Augustine Grass Mowing Height and Schedule
- Watering St. Augustine Grass: How Much and How Often
- Best Fertilizer and Nutrient Products for St. Augustine Grass
- Recommended products from Golf Course Lawn Store
- St. Augustine Grass Fertilizer Schedule
- Best Weed Killers for St. Augustine Grass Lawns
- Common St. Augustine Grass Problems and Diseases
- St. Augustine Grass in Winter
- How to Green Up St. Augustine Grass in Spring
- Pros and Cons of St. Augustine Grass
- FAQs on St. Augustine Lawn Care
- The St. Augustine Lawn Trinity: Mow Feed Protect

St. Augustine grass is a thick, lush, warm-season turf known for its excellent shade tolerance, broad blades, and deep green color. Popular throughout the southern United States, it thrives when mowing height, watering, fertilization, and pest control are dialed in correctly. This guide covers everything you need to know to maintain a healthy St. Augustine lawn year-round.
What Is St. Augustine Grass?
St. Augustine grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum) is a warm-season turfgrass prized for its thick, lush growth and shade tolerance, making it one of the most popular choices for home lawns across the southern U.S. — especially in humid, coastal, and subtropical regions. When it’s happy, it forms a dense “living carpet” that feels soft underfoot and naturally suppresses many weeds simply by outcompeting them.
Appearance and Texture
If you’re wondering what St. Augustine grass looks like, it has a few dead giveaways:
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Blade width: Broad, flat blades (wider than Bermuda or Zoysia)
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Color: Medium to dark green during active growth
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Texture: Coarse blade feel, but dense turf overall
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Overall look: Thick, cushiony, carpet-like coverage.
St. Augustine is not a fine-bladed “putting green” grass — it’s a lush, suburban show-lawn grass. The density is what makes it look premium. When it’s properly mowed and fed, it has that “puffy” look that fills in gaps and hides soil well.
Quick ID tip: If your grass has wide blades and you can spot above-ground runners creeping across the surface, you’re probably looking at St. Augustine.

Growth Habit (How It Spreads)
St. Augustine spreads only by above-ground stolons — also called runners. These runners creep across the soil surface, root at the nodes, and gradually knit the lawn together into a thick mat.
Unlike Bermuda grass, St. Augustine:
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Does not spread by rhizomes (underground stems)
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Does not produce viable seed for reliable lawn establishment.
That matters for lawn care because it means:
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Bare spots don’t fill in overnight. It will spread, but it’s slower at repairing damage than Bermuda.
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Installation is usually sod or plugs. You’re not “seeding St. Augustine” the way you can with common Bermuda.
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Traffic tolerance is limited. Since it spreads only on top, repeated wear can tear stolons and delay recovery.

If you’ve got kids, dogs, or a high-traffic path, St. Augustine can still work — but you’ll want to protect those worn areas (stepping stones, mulch paths, or rotating play zones) so runners can keep doing their job.
Related: Sod Installation Best Practices for Establishing New Warm-Season Lawns
Why Homeowners Love It
St. Augustine has a very specific superpower: it thrives where many warm-season grasses struggle.
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Performs well in partial shade: It’s one of the best warm-season options for lawns that get morning sun and afternoon shade or filtered light under trees.
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Naturally crowds out weeds: Its density helps reduce weed pressure — not because it “kills weeds,” but because it shades the soil and limits open space.
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Looks lush and high-end: When it’s mowed at the right height and fertilized correctly, St. Augustine delivers that thick, upscale lawn look that people associate with southern neighborhoods.
The trade-off: That lush growth comes with a need for smart watering, moderate fertilization, and pest awareness (hello, chinch bugs). But if your lawn has shade and humidity, St. Augustine is often the most rewarding warm-season grass you can grow.
Where Does St. Augustine Grass Grow Best?
St. Augustine grass performs best in warm, humid climates and is most common in USDA Hardiness Zones 8–10.
Common Regions
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Florida
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Texas (mainly coastal and Gulf regions)
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Louisiana
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Georgia
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Alabama
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Mississippi
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South Carolina
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Southern California.
Sun and Shade Requirements
St. Augustine grass is best known for its ability to thrive in partially shaded lawns where many other warm-season grasses struggle. It performs best when it receives about 4–6 hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly morning sun followed by light afternoon shade. This makes it an excellent choice for yards with mature trees, homes that cast afternoon shadows, or neighborhoods with closely spaced houses.
Compared to Bermuda grass, St. Augustine handles reduced light far more effectively. While Bermuda quickly thins and weakens without full sun, St. Augustine can maintain density and color under filtered or intermittent light as long as airflow and soil moisture are appropriately managed.
That said, it does have limits. Deep, continuous shade in areas that receive less than four hours of sunlight per day will eventually lead to thinning, increased disease pressure, and bare spots. On the other end of the spectrum, St. Augustine also struggles in full sun when combined with drought stress. Unlike Bermuda, it does not tolerate prolonged dry conditions well and can quickly decline if irrigation is inconsistent. For the best results, aim for a balance: moderate sunlight, good airflow, and reliable moisture.
Climate Considerations
St. Augustine grass is well-suited to hot, humid climates, where it thrives during long, warm growing seasons. It handles summer heat very well and maintains color and density as long as water and nutrients are adequate. This is why it’s so common in coastal regions and across the Deep South, where high humidity and warm nights are the norm.
Cold, however, is its weak point. St. Augustine has poor cold tolerance compared to other warm-season grasses. When temperatures drop, it enters dormancy earlier than Bermuda and is far more vulnerable to damage. Even light frosts can cause leaf burn, and extended freezes can result in significant turf loss, especially in the northern edge regions of its growing range.
Because of this sensitivity, St. Augustine lawns require careful winter management. Fertilization must stop early, foot traffic should be minimized during cold snaps, and frost-damaged turf should be left alone until spring to avoid further injury. In climates with frequent hard freezes, St. Augustine can still be grown — but it demands realistic expectations and proactive seasonal care.
Types of St. Augustine Grass

Understanding the different types of St. Augustine grass is vital because not all varieties perform the same. Differences in shade tolerance, cold tolerance, growth speed, texture, and pest resistance can determine whether your lawn thrives or struggles. Choosing the right cultivar for your climate and yard conditions will save you years of frustration and corrective work.
Unlike some turfgrasses, St. Augustine varieties are not interchangeable. Each one was bred to solve a specific problem — whether that’s cold injury, disease pressure, or visual appeal.
Common St. Augustine Varieties
| Variety | Notable Traits |
|---|---|
| Floratam | Coarse texture, large blades, and aggressive growth, which allows it to establish quickly and outcompete weeds. However, it has poor cold tolerance and struggles in areas that experience hard freezes. |
| Palmetto | Better cold tolerance, slightly finer texture than Floratam, and performs well in partial shade and cooler climates. Establishes well from sod, recovers evenly from stress, and maintains color longer into the fall. A popular choice in transition zones and coastal regions. |
| Raleigh | The most cold-hardy St. Augustine variety available, making it ideal for the northern edge of the growing range. Grows more slowly but offers excellent winter survival. Less tolerant of heat stress and more prone to disease in hot, humid conditions. |
| Seville | A dwarf variety with compact growth and finer texture. Spreads more slowly but excels in shaded environments. Tolerates slightly lower mowing heights but recovers more slowly from traffic or damage. |
| CitraBlue | A newer cultivar with deep blue-green color, enhanced density, and improved stress tolerance. Offers better disease resistance and a more uniform appearance throughout the growing season. Often chosen for premium, modern lawns. |
Choosing the Right Variety of St Augustine for Your Lawn
As a general rule:
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Floratam dominates lawns in Florida and warm coastal regions with minimal freeze risk.
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Palmetto and Raleigh are better suited for cooler climates and northern-edge regions.
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Seville is ideal for shaded yards with limited sunlight.
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CitraBlue is a strong choice for homeowners prioritizing color, density, and visual appeal.
Matching the variety to your climate, sunlight conditions, and expectations is one of the most important decisions you can make in St. Augustine lawn care — and it often determines success before the first mowing even happens.

Best Soils for St. Augustine Grass
St. Augustine grass is adaptable but performs best in well-drained, fertile soils that retain moisture without staying saturated. Because this grass prefers consistent moisture, soil structure and drainage play a significant role in long-term lawn health.
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Ideal pH: 5.5–7.5. St. Augustine tolerates a slightly wider pH range than Bermuda, but soil outside this range can still limit nutrient uptake. A soil test will help determine whether lime (to raise pH) or sulfur (to lower pH) is needed.
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Texture: Sandy loam or loam soils are ideal. These soils allow roots to breathe, drain excess water efficiently, and still hold enough moisture to support St. Augustine’s higher water needs during hot weather.
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Drainage: St. Augustine does not tolerate standing water. Poor drainage increases the risk of fungal diseases such as brown patch and take-all root rot. Heavy clay soils should be aerated regularly and amended with organic matter to improve soil structure and water movement.
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Nutrient-rich base: Before installing sod or plugs, incorporating compost or a soil conditioner improves organic matter, supports root development, and reduces stress during establishment.
Pro Tip: A soil test every 1–2 years is the fastest way to fine-tune your St. Augustine grass fertilizer plan and correct imbalances before they show up as yellowing, thinning, or disease issues.
St. Augustine Grass Mowing Height and Schedule

Mowing is one of the most critical components of proper St. Augustine grass care. More than fertilizer or watering, mowing height directly affects turf density, root depth, weed resistance, and disease pressure. St. Augustine grass performs best when mowed higher and less frequently than Bermuda, allowing its broad blades and stolon-based growth to remain healthy and stress-free.
Optimal Mowing Height
Unlike Bermuda, St. Augustine grass should never be mowed short. Its growth habit and shallow root system require extra leaf surface to fuel photosynthesis and protect the soil.
The ideal mowing height depends on the variety:
Standard St. Augustine varieties (Floratam, Palmetto, Raleigh, CitraBlue):
Mow at 3.5 to 4 inches.
This height promotes deeper roots, improved shade tolerance, and better resistance to heat and disease. Rotary mowers are ideal for this range.
Dwarf St. Augustine varieties (Seville):
Mow at 2 to 2.5 inches.
These compact varieties tolerate slightly lower heights, but still should not be cut aggressively.
Pro Tip: Cutting St. Augustine too low is one of the most common lawn care mistakes. Scalping weakens the turf, exposes stolons, and opens the door to weeds and disease.
Mowing Frequency
During the active growing season (late spring through summer):
Mow every 5–7 days, depending on growth rate. Faster growth during warm, wet weather may require mowing every 4–5 days to avoid removing too much blade at once.
During cooler months or slow-growth periods:
Mowing frequency may drop to every 10–14 days, or stop entirely once the lawn enters dormancy.
💡 Why mow higher?
St. Augustine spreads only through above-ground stolons. Taller mowing heights protect these runners, encourage lateral growth, and help the lawn stay thick enough to suppress weeds naturally.
Follow the One-Third Rule
No matter the mowing height, always follow the one-third rule:
Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade in a single mowing.
Cutting too much at once can:
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Shock the turf
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Cause yellowing or browning
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Increase stress during heat or drought
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Make the lawn more susceptible to fungal disease.
Example:
If your St. Augustine lawn is maintained at 4 inches, do not let it grow beyond 6 inches before mowing again.
Best Mowers for St. Augustine Grass
Rotary mowers:
The only recommended mower type for St. Augustine. A sharp rotary blade delivers a clean cut at higher mowing heights and minimizes tearing of the broad grass blades.
Reel mowers:
❌ Not recommended. Reel mowers cut too low and can severely damage St. Augustine grass.
Bagging vs. Mulching
Mulching grass cuttings is generally recommended. Returning cuttings helps recycle nutrients and improves soil health without contributing to thatch when mowing is done correctly.
Bag cuttings only when:
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The lawn is severely overgrown
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You’re removing diseased turf
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You need to prevent the spread of weed seeds.
Keeping St. Augustine at the correct mowing height is one of the easiest ways to avoid common problems like thinning, weed invasion, and disease — and it’s often the difference between a struggling lawn and a thick, vibrant one.
Watering St. Augustine Grass: How Much and How Often

Proper watering of St. Augustine grass is essential for root health and disease prevention.
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Weekly water: 1–1.5 inches (including rainfall)
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Frequency: 1–2 deep waterings per week
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Best time: Early morning (before 10 am).
Signs It Needs Water
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Folded blades
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Blue-gray tint
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Footprints remain visible instead of springing back up.
Best Fertilizer and Nutrient Products for St. Augustine Grass
St. Augustine grass requires moderate nitrogen, with an emphasis on slow-release feeding and soil health.
Fertilizer Guidelines
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Avoid excessive nitrogen
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Prioritize potassium for stress tolerance
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Spoon-feed during peak summer growth.
Recommended products from Golf Course Lawn Store
Country Club 16‑0‑8 Humic Max (Granular)
A premium granular fertilizer with 16% nitrogen (35% slow-release), 8% potassium, and 8.9% humic acid. Delivers fast green-up in 5–7 days, enhances nutrient uptake, improves soil health, and supports long-season feeding in warm-season grasses like St Augustine.
Golf Course Lawn 20‑2‑3 Liquid Fertilizer
A fast-acting foliar "spoon-feed" fertilizer; delivers turf response and color in 2–3 days without needing irrigation. It contains seaweed and fulvic acid to boost nutrient uptake, ideal for quick greening during active growth periods.
CarbonizPN‑G™ Granular Biostimulant
A soil-enhancing biostimulant combining compost and biochar (activated carbon) to improve soil structure, moisture retention, and nutrient availability. Perfect for supporting a healthy root system and boosting the effectiveness of fertilizers on warm-season lawns, including St Augustine.
Primo Maxx Plant Growth Regulator
A proven PGR that can reduce mowing and edging by up to 50% while promoting lateral growth, root vigor, and enhanced tolerance to heat, drought, and disease. A smart addition for homeowners aiming to maintain a dense, durable St Augustine turf with less effort.
Related: How Plant Growth Regulation Can Make Your Lawn Thicker and Greener
St. Augustine Grass Fertilizer Schedule
🌱 Spring (March–May)
Goal: Wake up the lawn, promote early green-up, and build strong roots.
| Action | Product Type | Recommended Product | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pre-emergent | Herbicide | Prodiamine 0-0-7 | Apply in early spring to block weeds before they sprout. |
| Fertilize | Granular | Country Club 16-0-8 Humic Max | Apply once in April for slow-release nutrition. |
| OR | Liquid | Golf Course Lawn 20-2-3 Liquid Fertilizer | Apply every 3–4 weeks starting when the grass greens up. |
| Biostimulant (optional) | Soil Conditioner | CarbonizPNG™ | Great for soil prep in March or April. |
| PGR (optional) | Plant Growth Regulator | Primo Maxx | Start when temperatures are consistently above 70°F. |
☀️ Summer (June–August)
Goal: Maintain color, density, and drought resilience.
| Action | Product Type | Recommended Product | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fertilize | Granular | Country Club Humic Max 16-0-8 | Apply once every 6–8 weeks as needed. |
| OR | Liquid | Golf Course Lawn 20-2-3 | Great for spoon-feeding without surge growth. Apply every 3–4 weeks. |
| Biostimulant (optional) | Soil Conditioner | CarbonizPNG™ | Mid-summer application helps with heat stress. |
| PGR (optional) | Plant Growth Regulator | Primo Maxx | Helps reduce mowing and improves turf density. Reapply every 3–4 weeks. |
🍂 Fall (September–October)
Goal: Prepare for dormancy, improve hardiness.
| Action | Product Type | Recommended Product | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fertilize | Granular | Final dose of Country Club 16-0-8 in Sept | Helps turf store energy before winter. |
| OR | Liquid | Final round of GCL 20-2-3 in early Oct | Avoid nitrogen-heavy applications after this. |
| Pre-emergent | Herbicide | Apply Prodiamine again in late fall | Prevents winter and spring weeds. |
| Biostimulant (optional) | Soil Conditioner | CarbonizPNG™ | Good time to condition the soil. |
| Stop PGR | Plant Growth Regulator | Primo Maxx | Discontinue by mid-October. |
❄️ Winter (November–February)
Goal: Protect dormant lawn, prevent early weeds.
| Action | Product Type | Recommended Product | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fertilizer | None | ❌ No fertilization | Bermuda grass is dormant — let it rest. |
| Pre-emergent | Herbicide | Apply late winter if temps are still high | Especially important in warmer zones. |
| Plan ahead | — | Soil test, sharpen mower, stock up | Get ready for spring success. |
Best Weed Killers for St. Augustine Grass Lawns
⚠️ St. Augustine grass is sensitive to many herbicides, so product selection is critical. Using the wrong weed killer can cause yellowing, stunting, or permanent turf damage. Always choose products that are specifically labeled as safe for St. Augustine lawns.
Below are the most effective and proven options from the Golf Course Lawn store, along with guidance on what to avoid.
Pre-Emergent Herbicides: Prevent Weeds Before They Start
Prodiamine 65 WDG (Barricade® 65WDG Alternative)
Prodiamine 65 WDG is one of the most reliable pre-emergent herbicides for St. Augustine grass. It prevents a wide range of grassy and broadleaf weeds — including crabgrass and Poa annua — before they germinate. Because it’s a water-dispersible granule, it’s mixed with water and applied as a spray, providing precise coverage without excess fertilizer.
This is an excellent choice for both spring and fall applications when timing weed prevention is critical.
Specticle® FLO Pre-Emergent Herbicide
Specticle FLO® contains indaziflam and provides long-lasting weed control — often up to four months from a single application. It controls dozens of grassy and broadleaf weeds and is especially effective when applied in late summer or fall to protect St. Augustine lawns through winter and early spring.
Because of its strength and longevity, Specticle FLO® is best suited for homeowners who want extended protection with fewer applications.
Post-Emergent and Combo Herbicides: Control Existing Weeds Safely
Celsius and Certainty Herbicide Kit (with Surfactant and Dye)
This kit is one of the safest and most versatile post-emergent solutions for St. Augustine lawns. It controls over 180 grassy and broadleaf weeds, including sedges and hard-to-kill invaders, without harming St. Augustine when used as directed.
Celsius handles most broadleaf weeds and some grasses, while Certainty fills the gaps — making this combo ideal for mixed weed pressure situations.
Removing Unwanted Bermuda Grass from a St. Augustine Lawn
Recognition and Fusilade II Herbicide Kit
If Bermuda grass is invading your St. Augustine lawn, this is the go-to solution.
Bermuda spreads aggressively through stolons and rhizomes and can quickly overtake St. Augustine if left unchecked. The Recognition and Fusilade II kit is specifically designed to selectively remove Bermuda grass without damaging St. Augustine turf.
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Recognition contains a safener that protects St. Augustine grass.
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Fusilade II provides post-emergent control of Bermuda grass
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When used together, they allow you to eliminate Bermuda while preserving your lawn.
This is one of the few proven, lawn-safe ways to reclaim a St. Augustine lawn from Bermuda invasion.
Check out our detailed guide: How to Get Rid of Bermudagrass in Your Zoysia or St. Augustine Lawn
❌ Herbicides to Avoid on St. Augustine Grass
Some popular weed killers are not safe for St. Augustine grass and should be avoided entirely:
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Quinclorac-based products
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Quintessential Herbicide
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Drive XLR8
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Triad Select Herbicide
These products can cause severe injury or kill St. Augustine grass, even when applied at labeled rates. They are commonly used on Bermuda lawns but do not translate safely to St. Augustine turf.
Common St. Augustine Grass Problems and Diseases
While St. Augustine grass is known for its toughness and shade tolerance, it’s not immune to pests and disease — especially when cultural practices (watering, mowing, and fertilizing) aren’t dialed in. Here’s a deeper look at the most common issues you’ll encounter and the products that help you prevent or manage them.
Brown Patch (Rhizoctonia solani)

Brown Patch is a fungal disease that shows up as large, irregular patches of tan or brown turf. It usually develops in warm, humid conditions, especially when nights are warm, and lawns stay wet for long periods.
Symptoms:
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Circular or irregular brown patches
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Turf edges may appear dark or smoky
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Grass blades often look fried or water-soaked.
Why it happens:
This disease thrives when leaves remain wet too long, from overhead irrigation in the evening, or poor drainage.
Control and prevention:
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Water in the early morning, so the grass dries quickly
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Reduce nitrogen applications during hot, humid periods
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Ensure good air circulation and avoid thatch buildup.
Gray Leaf Spot

Gray Leaf Spot is another fungal disease that often affects St. Augustine grass during hot, humid weather — especially when the lawn is stressed from heat, drought, or improper fertilization.
Symptoms:
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Small, grayish lesions on leaf blades
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Blighted or blunted leaf tips
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Thin, weakened turf with uneven color.
Management:
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Improve mowing practices — don’t remove more than one-third of blade height
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Avoid frequent, shallow watering
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Apply fungicides at the first sign of disease pressure.
Take-All Root Rot

Take-All Root Rot attacks the roots and lower stems of St. Augustine grass, often leading to thinning, wilting, or patchy turf — especially after stress events such as drought or heavy traffic.
Symptoms:
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Thinning or weak-looking grass
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Roots that appear blackened or rotted
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Lawn stress that doesn’t improve after watering.
Management:
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Avoid low mowing heights that weaken roots.
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Improve soil compaction through core aeration.
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Reduce excess nitrogen late in the season.
Fungicides for St Augustine Grass Disease Control
Regarding Bermuda grass disease control, two products stand out for their broad-spectrum effectiveness: Pillar SC Intrinsic® Brand and Headway G.
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Pillar SC Intrinsic® Brand is a liquid fungicide that targets a wide range of turf diseases, including brown patch, dollar spot, and spring dead spot, making it a powerhouse for both prevention and control.
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Headway G is a granular option combining two active ingredients to protect against over 20 common lawn diseases. It’s easy to spread and delivers long-lasting protection.
Chinch Bugs (Biggest Pest Threat)

Unlike diseases, chinch bugs are insects that can quickly devastate St. Augustine lawns, sucking sap from grass blades and causing large, sunken, yellow or brown patches.
Signs of chinch bug damage:
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Random yellow or brown patches
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Turf that feels dry and stressed even after watering
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Grass that pulls up easily — insects feed at the thatch layer.
Pest management tips:
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Inspect your lawn regularly, especially in summer and early fall
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Avoid over-fertilizing with high nitrogen — lush growth attracts chinch bugs
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Use insecticides labeled for chinch bug control, such as Acelepryn G Granular Insecticide.
Related: How to Make Getting Rid of Chinch Bugs a Cinch
St. Augustine Grass in Winter
St. Augustine grass has poor cold tolerance compared to other warm-season grasses and enters dormancy once temperatures consistently drop below about 60°F. This is a normal part of its growth cycle. Still, winter is also when St. Augustine is at its most vulnerable, especially in areas that experience frost or occasional freezes.
What Winter Dormancy Looks Like
As St. Augustine transitions into dormancy, you’ll notice several changes:
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The lawn gradually turns yellow to light brown, starting in shaded or cooler areas
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Growth slows dramatically and then stops altogether
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Mowing frequency drops to zero once the grass fully shuts down.
This color change does not mean the grass is dead. The plant is conserving energy in its roots and stolons, waiting for warmer soil temperatures in spring.
Sensitivity to Frost and Freezes
St. Augustine is extremely sensitive to frost damage. Even a light frost can burn leaf tissue, and repeated frosts or extended freezes can cause thinning or turf loss — particularly in low spots or exposed areas.
When frost occurs:
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Leaf blades may appear dark, wilted, or water-soaked
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Damaged turf can look patchy once temperatures warm
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Recovery in spring may be slower if stolons are injured.
Because of this, winter management is less about “doing more” and more about avoiding unnecessary stress.
Winter Care Tips for St. Augustine Grass
Stop nitrogen early
All nitrogen fertilization should stop well before winter — typically by early fall, depending on your region. Late-season nitrogen encourages tender growth that is easily damaged by cold, and it increases the risk of disease during dormancy.
Water only during drought
St. Augustine needs very little water in winter. Irrigation should be reduced significantly and used only during extended dry periods (generally two to three weeks without rainfall). Overwatering during dormancy increases the risk of fungal problems and root decline.
Avoid foot traffic on frosted turf
Walking on frosted St. Augustine grass can cause severe damage. Frozen leaf tissue is brittle, and pressure from foot traffic can rupture cells, leading to blackened footprints and long-lasting injury. If frost is present, stay off the lawn until it fully thaws.
How to Green Up St. Augustine Grass in Spring

After winter dormancy, St. Augustine grass needs a careful, patient approach to transition from yellow-brown turf to a thick, green lawn. Unlike Bermuda, St. Augustine is more sensitive to cold, fertilizer timing, and mowing mistakes. Pushing growth too early — or treating it like Bermuda — can slow green-up, encourage disease, or even cause turf damage.
Here’s how to bring St. Augustine back the right way.
1. Wait for the Right Soil Temperature
St. Augustine grass begins actively growing when soil temperatures consistently reach 65°F or higher.
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This typically occurs later than Bermuda, often from late March through April, depending on location.
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Coastal and southern areas warm up earlier; transition zones may take longer
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Use a soil thermometer, not just daytime air temperatures.
💡 Why this matters: Feeding or mowing aggressively before the grass is awake wastes product and stresses dormant turf.
2. Start with Weed Prevention
As soil temperatures rise, spring weeds emerge quickly — often before St. Augustine fully greens up.
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Apply a St. Augustine–safe pre-emergent herbicide just before or at green-up
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This prevents crabgrass, annual bluegrass, and other early-season weeds from competing with the turf.
Weed prevention is essential for St. Augustine because it spreads only by stolons and does not recover quickly from early-season competition.
3. Resume Fertilization at the Right Time
Do not rush nitrogen applications.
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Wait until at least 50% of the lawn has greened up
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Early nitrogen can encourage weeds and increase disease pressure
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Begin with a moderate, slow-release fertilizer rather than a heavy nitrogen surge.
St. Augustine responds best to steady, controlled feeding, not aggressive spring push growth.
4. Adjust Your Mowing Height (Do NOT Scalp)
Unlike Bermuda, St. Augustine should never be scalped in spring.
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Begin mowing only once the grass is actively growing
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Start at the upper end of your normal mowing range
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Gradually return to your regular height as growth increases.
Recommended spring mowing heights:
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Standard St. Augustine varieties: 3.5–4 inches
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Dwarf varieties (Seville): 2–2.5 inches.
⚠️ Scalping St. Augustine exposes stolons, weakens roots, and dramatically slows green-up.
5. Water as Growth Resumes
St. Augustine needs moisture to green up, but overwatering is a common spring mistake.
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Begin irrigation only when new growth is visible
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Aim for 1–1.5 inches of water per week, including rainfall
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Water deeply and infrequently to encourage root development
Avoid daily watering — soggy spring soil increases the risk of brown patch and root diseases.
6. Spot-Treat Early Weeds Carefully
If weeds break through your pre-emergent barrier, spot-treat only with St. Augustine–safe post-emergent herbicides.
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Avoid blanket spraying during early green-up
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Target weeds individually to minimize turf stress.
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Products like the Celsius and Certainty Herbicide Kit are safe options for broadleaf weeds, sedges, and select grasses when used as directed.
Pros and Cons of St. Augustine Grass

St. Augustine grass is a favorite across the southern U.S. for homeowners who want a thick, lush, high-end lawn, especially in yards with partial shade. But St. Augustine isn’t the right fit for every property. Understanding its strengths and limitations will help you decide whether it matches your lawn’s conditions and your maintenance expectations.
Pros
St. Augustine grass excels where many warm-season grasses struggle.
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Excellent shade tolerance: One of the best warm-season grasses for partial shade, making it ideal for lawns with trees or buildings that block full sun.
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Dense, lush appearance: Forms a thick turf that looks full and upscale when mowed and fertilized correctly.
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Natural weed suppression: Its density helps crowd out many common weeds by shading the soil surface.
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Performs well in humid climates: Thrives in coastal and high-humidity regions where other grasses often fail.
Cons
Despite its advantages, St. Augustine comes with a few important trade-offs.
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Poor cold tolerance: Goes dormant early and is easily damaged by frost or extended freezes.
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Higher water demand: Requires consistent moisture and does not tolerate prolonged drought well.
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Limited traffic tolerance: Recovers more slowly from wear and tear compared to Bermuda.
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Sensitive to herbicides and pests: Fewer weed control options and vulnerable to chinch bugs if not monitored closely.
St. Augustine grass shines in warm, humid, partially shaded lawns where appearance matters more than heavy foot traffic. If your yard matches those conditions and you’re willing to manage water, mowing height, and pest pressure, it can deliver one of the most attractive lawns in the South.
St. Augustine Grass vs. Other Warm-Season Grasses
If you live in the southern U.S. or along the transition zone, you have several warm-season turfgrass options to choose from. Each grass has its own strengths and trade-offs, and the best choice depends on sun exposure, climate, traffic levels, and maintenance expectations. Here’s how St. Augustine grass compares to other popular warm-season grasses.
St. Augustine Grass vs. Bermuda Grass

St. Augustine Grass
Pros:
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Excellent shade tolerance
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Thick, lush, carpet-like appearance
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Performs well in humid and coastal climates.
Cons:
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Poor cold tolerance
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Higher water needs
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Limited traffic tolerance
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Sensitive to some herbicides and pests (especially chinch bugs).
Bermuda Grass
Pros:
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Extremely durable and fast-recovering
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Excellent drought and heat tolerance
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Ideal for high-traffic lawns and play areas.
Cons:
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Requires full sun
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Needs frequent mowing
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Goes dormant and brown in winter.
Go for:
St. Augustine if your lawn has partial shade and humidity; Bermuda if you have full sun and need durability for kids, pets, or heavy use.
St. Augustine Grass vs. Zoysia Grass

St. Augustine Grass
Pros:
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Better shade tolerance than most warm-season grasses
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Faster establishment from sod
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Thick coverage that naturally suppresses weeds.
Cons:
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Requires more water
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Slower recovery from wear
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Coarser texture.
Zoysia Grass
Pros:
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Dense, soft feel underfoot
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Better cold tolerance than St. Augustine
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Lower mowing frequency once established.
Cons:
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Very slow to establish and recover
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It can thin in heavy shade
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Dormant and brown in cooler winters.
Go for:
St. Augustine if shade is your biggest challenge; Zoysia if you want a softer lawn with moderate sun and less frequent mowing.
St. Augustine Grass vs. Centipede Grass

St. Augustine Grass
Pros:
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Rich green color
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Thick, lush appearance
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Performs well in humid environments.
Cons:
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Higher maintenance
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Needs regular watering and feeding
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Less tolerant of neglect.
Centipede Grass
Pros:
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Very low maintenance
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Grows well in acidic soils
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Requires minimal fertilization and mowing.
Cons:
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Poor wear tolerance
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Slower growth and recovery
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Lighter green color.
Go for:
St. Augustine if appearance matters; Centipede if you want a “low-input” lawn with minimal upkeep.
St. Augustine Grass vs. Bahia Grass

St. Augustine Grass
Pros:
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Dense, attractive turf
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Better weed suppression
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Preferred for residential lawns.
Cons:
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Needs more water and care
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Struggles in cold climates.
Bahia Grass
Pros:
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Extremely drought-tolerant
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Very low maintenance
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Excellent for erosion control.
Cons:
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Coarse texture
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Produces frequent seedheads
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Sparse, open growth habit.
Go for:
St. Augustine, if you want a lush residential lawn; Bahia, if you need rugged, low-maintenance grass for large or utility areas.
FAQs on St. Augustine Lawn Care
Q: Can St. Augustine grass be grown from seed?
A: No. St. Augustine grass does not produce viable seed for lawn establishment. It must be installed using sod or plugs, which spread through above-ground stolons over time.
Q: Why does my St. Augustine grass have thick runners on top of the soil?
A: Those runners are called stolons, and they’re how St. Augustine spreads. Visible stolons are normal and healthy. However, excessive stolon exposure can indicate mowing too low or turf stress.
Q: Is St. Augustine grass good for lawns with dogs?
A: It can work, but it’s not ideal for heavy pet traffic. St. Augustine recovers more slowly than Bermuda and can thin in high-wear areas. Rotating play zones or installing stepping stones can help protect the turf.
Q: Why does my St. Augustine grass look patchy even though I water it?
A: Patchiness is often caused by uneven sunlight, compacted soil, disease pressure, or chinch bug activity, not lack of water. Overwatering can actually make the problem worse by encouraging disease.
Q: Can I dethatch St. Augustine grass?
A: Aggressive dethatching is not recommended. St. Augustine has surface stolons that power rakes can damage. If thatch becomes an issue, core aeration is the safer and more effective solution.
Q: How long does St. Augustine sod take to root?
A: Sod typically begins rooting within 10–14 days under proper watering. Full establishment usually takes 4–6 weeks, during which foot traffic should be minimized.
Q: Can St. Augustine grass handle salty or coastal conditions?
A: Yes — St. Augustine has moderate salt tolerance, which makes it a popular choice in coastal regions. Proper drainage and occasional deep watering help flush salt from the soil.
Q: Why does my St. Augustine grass turn yellow in strips or patterns?
A: Striping or patterned yellowing often points to uneven fertilizer application, mower overlap issues, or irrigation coverage problems rather than disease.
Q: Can I mix St. Augustine grass with another turf type?
A: It’s not recommended. St. Augustine does not blend well with other grasses due to differences in mowing height, growth habit, and herbicide tolerance. Mixed lawns often result in an uneven appearance and management challenges.
Q: How long does St. Augustine grass live?
A: With proper care, a St. Augustine lawn can thrive for many decades. Most failures are due to improper mowing, excessive nitrogen, poor drainage, or repeated winter injury — not age.
The St. Augustine Lawn Trinity: Mow, Feed, Protect
St. Augustine grass is at its best when care is intentional, measured, and consistent. Unlike more aggressive turf types, it rewards homeowners who respect its growth habits and sensitivities.
Mow at the correct height to protect stolons, encourage density, and maintain shade tolerance. Feed with moderation. St. Augustine responds best to steady, balanced nutrition — not heavy nitrogen surges. Protect the lawn by using only St. Augustine–safe herbicides, managing moisture carefully, and staying ahead of disease and pest pressure.
When these three elements work together, St. Augustine grass delivers what it’s known for: a thick, lush, high-end lawn that performs beautifully in shade and humidity. Stick to the Trinity, and your lawn will stay resilient, attractive, and easier to manage season after season.
Ready to take your St Augustine grass to the next level? Shop our fertilizers, weed killers, and lawn care essentials and start building the lawn you’ve always wanted — one pro tip at a time. Check out our YouTube channel for more lawn care tips!