How to Use a Non-Ionic Surfactant for Better Herbicide Results

If you’re using a herbicide, fungicide, or pesticide on your lawn, adding a non-ionic surfactant is like giving your spray a turbo boost. It helps chemicals stick, spread, and penetrate better — meaning fewer wasted applications, faster results, and less money down the drain. Today, I’ll walk you through what a non-ionic surfactant is, how surfactants work, why they’re lawn care MVPs, and how to use them correctly. I’ll also cover some of the best surfactant and herbicide kits you can grab from the Golf Course Lawn Store.

What Is a Non-Ionic Surfactant?

Close-up of green grass blades covered in dew drops, with more blurred green foliage in the background.

Let’s start with the basics.

A non-ionic surfactant is a special spray additive that reduces surface tension between your lawn spray (herbicide, fungicide, or pesticide) and the leaf surface of your grass or weeds.

That’s a fancy way of saying:

  • Without it, your spray tends to bead up and roll right off leaves like water on a waxed car hood.

  • With it, the spray spreads out evenly and sticks, so the active ingredient gets into the plant where it can do its job.

So, if you’ve ever thought, “Man, I sprayed my whole yard and those weeds didn’t even flinch…” the missing link might not be the herbicide itself, but the lack of a good surfactant. That’s why lawn pros often call it a “herbicide helper.”

How Do Surfactants Work?

Close-up of vibrant green grass blades covered in glistening morning dew drops, with sunlight illuminating the scene.

Here’s the science, without putting you to sleep:

  1. Leaves have a waxy cuticle that naturally repels water. It’s the plant’s defense system.

  2. Most lawn sprays are water-based, so droplets can sit on top or, worse, roll off without help.

  3. A non-ionic surfactant breaks that surface tension. Think of it like soap breaking grease on a dirty dish.

  4. This allows your spray to:

    • Spread across the entire leaf instead of beading up.

    • Stick in place instead of rolling off.

    • Absorb faster and deeper into the plant tissue.

Bottom line: Surfactants make every drop of your spray work harder.

Why Use a Surfactant on Your Lawn?

If you want three good reasons to always pair a non-ionic surfactant for herbicide, here they are:

  1. Better coverage — Weeds get fully coated, leaving fewer survivors.

  2. Stronger penetration — The active ingredient makes it past the waxy barrier into the plant where the magic happens.

  3. Less waste — Instead of watching half your spray run off into the soil, it actually does its job.

That means:

  • Fewer repeat applications.

  • Faster weed kill.

  • More bang for your buck.

What’s the Difference Between Ionic and Non-Ionic Surfactants?

Not all surfactants are safe to use on your lawn. In fact, they fall into two main categories: ionic and non-ionic. It’s the non-ionic type you should be looking for. Here’s why:

1. Ionic Surfactants

  • Charged molecules — They carry either a positive charge (cationic) or a negative charge (anionic).

  • Examples you’d recognize — Many soaps and detergents are anionic surfactants.

  • How they work — They interact strongly with other charged particles because they have an electrical charge.

  • Why they’re not great for herbicides — That electrical charge can cause chemical reactions with some active ingredients, reducing effectiveness. Cationic surfactants in particular can be phytotoxic (they damage plant tissue).

2. Non-Ionic Surfactants

  • No electrical charge — Their molecules are neutral.

  • Examples in lawn care Hi-Yield Spreader Sticker Non-Ionic Surfactant.

  • How they work — They reduce the surface tension of the spray solution without reacting chemically with the herbicide, liquid fertilizers, fungicide, or pesticide.

  • Why they’re preferred – Because they’re neutral, they’re safe across a wide range of chemicals and turf types. They boost effectiveness without risking unwanted side effects.

That’s why when you see “use with a non-ionic surfactant” on a herbicide label, it’s not just a suggestion, it’s because those products are the most stable, reliable, and lawn-safe option.

Here’s our top choice:

hi-yield-spreader-sticker-non-ionic-surfactant-16-oz

When to Use a Lawn Surfactant

A close-up of a sprayer nozzle emitting a fine mist of liquid against a blurred green background, likely a lawn or garden.

Surfactants aren’t just for herbicides. You can (and should) use them with other lawn sprays:

1. With Herbicides

This is the most common use. Herbicides like Celsius, Certainty, Tenacity, and Fusilade II work noticeably better with a surfactant.

  • Broadleaf weeds absorb more herbicide.

  • Grass-type weeds can’t shrug off your spray.

  • You get a more uniform kill.

2. With Liquid Fungicides

Most fungal spores live on leaf surfaces. A surfactant helps liquid fungicides stick and spread, covering every nook and cranny so the disease doesn’t get a chance to rebound.

3. With Liquid Insecticides/Pesticides

Pests like armyworms, chinch bugs, or leafhoppers often hide on or under leaf surfaces. A surfactant makes your liquid pesticide coat leaves better, so pests come into contact with the active ingredient faster.

 

Related: Can You Apply Pre-emergent in Fall?

 

Our Best Herbicide Kits That Include Non-Ionic Surfactant

Now, let’s talk about practical lawn care kits that combine herbicides with surfactant and marking dye (so you can see exactly where you sprayed). These are my top recommendations:

  1. Celsius and Certainty Herbicide Kit with Surfactant and Dye

This is one of the best all-around herbicide kits for warm-season lawns, such as Bermuda, Zoysia, and St. Augustine.

  • Broad-spectrum control  Between Celsius and Certainty, you can knock out a wide range of weeds, from stubborn broadleaves (like spurge, clover, and dandelion) to grassy weeds (like dallisgrass and poa annua).

  • Safe on turf — When applied at the proper rate, these herbicides are safe for use on warm-season grasses, making them a solid option for homeowners who want pro-level results without risking lawn damage.

  • Complete package — The kit includes both herbicides, plus a non-ionic surfactant to maximize absorption and a blue marking dye so you can see where you’ve sprayed (a game changer for avoiding skips or overspray).

  • Flexible use — Works great for spot treatments or larger blanket applications, depending on your weed pressure.

 

celsius-and-certainty-herbicide-kit-with-surfactant-and-dye

 

This kit is hard to beat if you’re looking for a go-to weed control solution for warm-season lawns.

  1. Tenacity and Sedgehammer Herbicide Kit (Cool-Season Lawns)

Cool-season lawns (Kentucky Bluegrass, Fescue, Ryegrass) face their own unique set of weed challenges, and this kit covers the bases beautifully.

  • Dual action powerTenacity provides pre- and post-emergent control, taking out problem weeds like crabgrass, bentgrass, and even some broadleaf weeds. SedgeHammer® targets nutsedge, one of the toughest weeds cool-season homeowners deal with.

  • Complete control package — Includes herbicides, a non-ionic surfactant, and a blue marking dye for accuracy.

  • Safe on cool-season turf — When applied correctly, it works without harming your desirable grasses.

  • Excellent for new lawnsTenacity is one of the few herbicides labeled for use during seeding, which means you can protect your new grass while it’s establishing.

 

tenacity-and-sedgehammer-herbicide-kit-with-surfactant-and-dye-cool-season-grass

 

If you’ve got a northern or cool-season lawn, this kit is hands-down one of the most versatile and effective options available.

  1. Recognition and Fusilade Herbicide Kit

If you’ve ever battled Bermuda grass invading Zoysia or St. Augustine, you know how stubborn it can be. This kit is designed specifically for that headache.

  • Targeted Bermuda control Fusilade II knocks back Bermuda grass, while Recognition makes the treatment safer for desirable warm-season grasses like Zoysia and St. Augustine.

  • Great for selective renovation — Perfect if you’re trying to clean Bermuda out of a mixed lawn or protect the integrity of your Zoysia or St. Augustine turf.

  • Includes surfactant — Ensures maximum absorption into the Bermuda for faster, more reliable results.

  • Professional-grade solution — This is the kind of kit golf courses and sports fields use when they need precision control without sacrificing turf quality.

 

recognition-and-fusilade-herbicide-kit-remove-bermuda-in-zoysia-and-st-augustine-lawns

 

If Bermuda is creeping where it doesn’t belong, this is the surgical strike kit you need.

 

Related: 10 Weed Killer Mistakes to Avoid

 

How to Add and Apply Non-Ionic Surfactant

A person wearing a blue shirt, dark pants, and gloves, with a backpack sprayer, is spraying liquid from a nozzle onto plants in a garden, creating a fine mist.

Here’s the play-by-play for using surfactant the right way:

  1. Check your herbicide label first.

    • Most will say something like “Add 0.25% v/v non-ionic surfactant.”

    • That means 0.25% of your spray solution volume.

  2. Add your spray in the right order:

    • Fill the tank halfway with water.

    • Add your herbicide/fungicide/insecticide.

    • Add surfactant last.

    • Top off with water, agitate gently.

  3. Typical rate (for Hi-Yield Spreader Sticker):

    • ~1 teaspoon per gallon of spray solution (but always check the label).

  4. Apply evenly.

    • A backpack sprayer or pump sprayer works best.

    • Spray to the point of wet but not dripping.

 

 

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even pros mess this up sometimes — here’s what to avoid:

  • Overusing surfactant — More is not better. Too much can burn turf. Stick to label rates.

  • Skipping surfactant — Spraying herbicide without it is like running a race with one shoe untied.

  • Mixing order mistakes — Always add surfactant last, after your main chemical.

  • Spraying in bad weather — Don’t spray if rain is expected within a few hours, or if it’s 95°F+ (risk of turf burn).

Non-Ionic Surfactant FAQs

Q: What’s the difference between ionic and non-ionic surfactants?

A. Ionic surfactants carry a charge (positive or negative). Non-ionic surfactants don’t. That’s why non-ionic surfactants are safer for lawns — they work with a wider range of herbicides without causing chemical reactions.

Q: Can I use dish soap as a surfactant?

A. Short answer: Please don’t. Dish soap is not a proper non-ionic surfactant and can damage grass. Stick with products designed for turf.

Q: Do all herbicides need a surfactant?

A. Not always. Some are “formulated with surfactant included.” But if the label calls for one, or if you want maximum performance, it’s worth adding.

Q: Can I tank-mix surfactant with multiple products?

A. Yes, in most cases. Just remember to add your herbicide/fungicide/pesticide first, then add surfactant last. Always check labels for compatibility. If you buy one of our herbicide kits, you’ll know the products are compatible with Hi-Yield surfactant.

Q: Does a non-ionic surfactant stop herbicides, fungicides, or pesticides from getting into the soil?

A. No. A non-ionic surfactant doesn’t block chemicals from reaching the soil. Its job is to help sprays stick to and spread on leaf surfaces, which increases foliar uptake and makes herbicides, fungicides, and pesticides more effective.

If a product is designed to move into the soil (for example, a pre-emergent herbicide or a systemic fungicide), a surfactant won’t interfere with that natural process.

Think of a surfactant as a helper for foliar sprays, not a soil barrier. If you’re concerned about chemicals leaching into soil or groundwater, the bigger factors are choosing the right product, following the label rate, and spraying in the right weather conditions (avoid heavy rain right after application).

Q: Is a lawn surfactant the same as a wetting agent or soil surfactant?

A. Nope. A lawn surfactant (like Hi-Yield) helps foliar sprays stick and spread on leaves. A soil surfactant/wetting agent is used to fix water-repellent soils. It works down in the root zone by breaking surface tension in the soil itself, allowing water (and nutrients) to penetrate deeper and more evenly. They’re especially useful for sandy soils, hydrophobic patches, or areas where water tends to bead up and run off instead of soaking in.

They share the word surfactant because both reduce surface tension, but they solve totally different problems in lawn care.

An excellent choice of wetting agent is FOURPlay™ Moisture Manager, which includes a non-ionic surfactant in the bottle.

Q: Will a surfactant harm beneficial insects, like bees?

A. The surfactant itself won’t harm bees, but it does make pesticides and herbicides more effective — so avoid spraying when pollinators are active. Early morning or evening applications are best.

Q: Can I spray surfactant alone?

A. No — surfactants are “helpers.” They only work when paired with another product like herbicide, fungicide, or pesticide.

Stick It to the Weeds

Don’t skip the surfactant if you want your lawn sprays to work like they’re supposed to. A non-ionic surfactant is one of the cheapest, simplest ways to boost your herbicides, fungicides, and insecticides.

And if you want to go straight for complete, pro-level weed control? Pick one of the herbicide kits from the Golf Course Lawn Store

 

Ron Henry owner of golf course lawn store

Ron Henry

Ron Henry is the founder of Golf Course Lawn, which is dedicated to helping homeowners achieve golf course-quality lawns. He holds a certificate in Sports Turfgrass Management from the University of Georgia. With expert knowledge in turf care, fertilization, and weed control, he shares practical tips and product recommendations to create lush, healthy lawns.