How to Green Up Bermudagrass Faster in Spring

If you’re wondering how to green up Bermudagrass faster in spring, the key is to time a few key lawn care steps correctly. Bermudagrass begins waking up when soil temperatures consistently reach 60–65°F, but you can help speed up the transition by preparing the lawn properly.

The most effective ways to transition dormant Bermudagrass in spring include:

• Cleaning up winter debris

• Scalping Bermudagrass in spring to remove dormant blades

• Applying a pre-emergent herbicide before weeds germinate

• Fertilizing once the lawn reaches about 50% green-up

• Watering lightly while soil temperatures are warm.

These steps help the soil warm faster, encourage new growth, and protect the lawn while it’s still thin after winter dormancy.

In this guide, we’ll walk through how to wake up a Bermuda lawn safely, what products work best, and exactly when Bermudagrass turns green so you can get a thicker, healthier lawn earlier in the season.

When Does Bermudagrass Turn Green?

Bermudagrass doesn’t follow the calendar — it follows soil temperature and environmental cues. You might see warm days in late winter and assume your lawn should already be greening up, but Bermuda is programmed to stay dormant until conditions are consistently warm enough for active growth.

The main trigger is soil temperature, not air temperature.

For Bermudagrass to begin waking up, the soil needs to stay consistently between 60–65°F for several days. Once soil temperatures hit that range, the roots begin actively growing again, and the plant starts pushing out new green shoots.

A few other environmental factors also help trigger the transition:

• Warm nighttime temperatures — ideally above 50°F

• Longer daylight hours as spring progresses

• Warmer soil conditions created by increased sunlight exposure

• Healthy root systems from proper lawn care the previous year.

In most of the southern United States, Bermudagrass begins its spring transition sometime between March and May, depending on climate zone, elevation, and weather patterns.

For example:

• Deep South (Florida, South Texas, Gulf Coast): early to mid-March

• Transition zones (Tennessee, North Carolina, Oklahoma): late March to April

• Upper transition areas: late April into May.

Even lawns in the same neighborhood can green up at different speeds. If your lawn is still brown while your neighbor’s is already turning green, there’s usually a simple explanation.

Common reasons some Bermudagrass lawns wake up slower include:

• Cooler soil temperatures: Shaded lawns warm more slowly, especially if trees or buildings block morning sun.

• Shade exposure: Bermudagrass loves full sun. Areas with shade often lag behind by several weeks.

• Early fertilization mistakes: Applying fertilizer too early can actually slow green-up. The nutrients often feed weeds instead of dormant turf.

• Soil compaction: Hard, compacted soil prevents roots from growing and slows the warming process.

• North-facing slopes or poor drainage: These areas stay cooler longer and can delay green-up.

• Heavy thatch buildup: Thick layers of old grass can insulate the soil and prevent it from warming efficiently.

The key takeaway is this: you can’t force Bermudagrass to wake up early. But you can create the right conditions so that when the soil warms up, your lawn responds quickly.

That’s where proper spring practices — like scalping bermudagrass in spring, managing thatch, and timing fertilizer correctly — make a huge difference.

Patience helps. But smart prep is what really speeds up green-up.

Smart Prep to Green Up Your Bermuda Lawn

Step 1: Clean It Up 

Before you start throwing fertilizer or lawn treatments around, take a minute to clean up what winter left behind. This step doesn’t get much attention, but it plays a surprisingly big role in waking up Bermudagrass after winter.

During dormancy, lawns tend to collect all sorts of debris — fallen leaves, sticks, pine needles, leftover cuttings, and sometimes even compacted layers of dead grass. If that material sits on the lawn too long, it acts like a blanket over the turf.

And blankets are great for beds… not so great for grass.

Here’s what you should do first:

Rake up debris: Use a leaf rake or lawn rake to remove sticks, leaves, and winter debris. This improves airflow and prevents moisture from getting trapped against the grass.

Remove matted leaves and dead material: Wet leaves can compress the grass and create damp conditions that promote fungal disease. If you see areas where grass is flattened or stuck together, gently rake them up to let the turf breathe again.

Check for winter fungus: Cool-season fungal issues like snow mold or other winter diseases can occasionally appear in dormant lawns. Look for:

• Gray or pink patches

• Matted grass that feels slimy or brittle

• Circular dead spots.

If you notice anything unusual, it’s worth addressing early before the lawn fully wakes up.

Make sure you’re not dealing with insect damage: Some pests, like billbugs or overwintering larvae, can start feeding as temperatures warm. Tug gently on a few brown patches. If the grass pulls up easily with little resistance, you might be dealing with insect damage rather than dormancy.

Cleaning up your lawn also helps sunlight reach the crown of the grass plant, which is the part responsible for new growth. When sunlight hits the soil directly, it warms the ground faster — and warmer soil means Bermudagrass begins its spring transition sooner.

You’re not forcing the grass to grow yet — you’re simply creating the right conditions so when the soil warms up, your Bermuda lawn is ready to wake up and green up quickly.

Step 2: Scalping Bermudagrass in Spring (Your Secret Weapon for Faster Green-Up)

Scalping is one of the most effective things you can do in early spring.

Bermudagrass naturally builds up a layer of dead, brown blades during winter dormancy. When spring arrives, the new green shoots have to grow up through that old material before you see much color. Scalping removes that dead layer so the plant can start fresh.

When done at the right time, scalping Bermudagrass in spring helps the lawn transition out of dormancy much faster.

Why Scalping Works

Scalping provides several important benefits during spring green-up:

Removes dormant brown blades: Cutting the turf very low clears away the old winter growth that blocks new green shoots.

Allows sunlight to warm the soil faster: Once the brown canopy is removed, sunlight can reach the soil surface directly. Warmer soil temperatures help Bermudagrass roots activate sooner.

Encourages uniform green-up: Without scalping, Bermuda often greens up unevenly, leaving patches of green mixed with lingering brown turf.

Reduces the “half green, half brown” look: Scalping creates a clean slate, allowing the lawn to green up more evenly across the entire yard.

When to Scalp Bermudagrass

Timing is everything. Scalping too early can actually delay your lawn’s recovery.

The best time to scalp is when:

• The danger of a hard freeze has mostly passed

• You see the first small signs of green shoots

• Soil temperatures are approaching 60°F.

At this stage, the grass is beginning to wake up but hasn’t fully started growing yet. That makes it the perfect time to remove dormant material without stressing the plant.

If you scalp while the lawn is still fully dormant and a freeze follows, the exposed crowns can suffer cold damage and slow spring recovery.

How Low Should You Cut?

The goal is to remove as much dormant material as possible without damaging the plant’s crown.

For most residential lawns:

• ½–1 inch is ideal for common Bermudagrass varieties

• Hybrid Bermuda or reel-mowed lawns may go lower.

If you normally mow your Bermuda at 2 inches during the season, this early spring scalp may look extreme — but it sets the stage for healthy growth later.

A good approach is to gradually lower the mower height over two or three passes instead of dropping it to the lowest setting all at once.

Always Bag the Cuttings

When you scalp, you’ll generate a lot of dry, brown material.

Make sure to bag or rake up the cuttings instead of leaving them on the lawn. If you leave that debris behind, it can create a temporary thatch layer that blocks sunlight and traps moisture.

Removing those cuttings helps the soil warm faster and gives new Bermuda shoots room to grow.

One Important Warning

⚠️ Don’t scalp too early.

This is the biggest mistake homeowners make when trying to green up Bermudagrass faster.

If you scalp too soon and a late freeze arrives, the exposed crowns can suffer damage, and your lawn may take weeks longer to recover.

When in doubt, wait until:

• Soil temperatures are warming

• Spring weather patterns are stabilizing

• You’re seeing the first hints of green.

A properly timed scalp doesn’t just wake your Bermuda lawn up — it sets the entire growing season up for thicker, healthier turf.

 

Related: What Is Lawn Scalping and When Should You Do It? 

 

Step 3: Light Feeding — Not a Nitrogen Bomb

This is the step where many homeowners accidentally sabotage their spring green-up.

The first instinct is usually to dump a heavy nitrogen fertilizer on the lawn. The thinking is simple: more fertilizer equals faster growth.

But Bermudagrass doesn’t work that way.

If you fertilize too early while the grass is still mostly dormant, you’re not helping the lawn — you’re usually just feeding weeds or forcing weak, uneven growth. Bermuda needs its roots fully active before it can use nitrogen properly, and that only happens once the soil warms up.

So the rule is simple: Only feed it when it’s ready.

The Early Spring Fertilization Rule

Before applying fertilizer, make sure two things have happened:

• The lawn is at least 50% green

• Soil temperatures are consistently around 65°F.

At this stage, Bermudagrass roots are active enough to absorb nutrients efficiently, and the plant can convert those nutrients into healthy growth rather than stress.

Fertilizing before this point often leads to:

• patchy green-up

• excessive top growth

• increased weed pressure

• weaker root development.

Patience here pays off for the entire season.

The Right Kind of Fertilizer for Spring Green-Up

Once your lawn hits that 50% green-up mark, it’s time for a light, balanced feeding rather than a heavy nitrogen blast.

A great option is Lebanon Pro Humic Max 16-0-8:

This fertilizer works especially well during the spring transition because it promotes steady, healthy growth rather than a sudden surge.

Here’s why it’s a good choice for waking up Bermudagrass after winter:

Controlled-release nitrogen: Instead of dumping nutrients all at once, controlled-release nitrogen feeds the grass gradually, helping it grow consistently as soil temperatures continue rising.

Humic acid for root stimulation: Humic substances improve nutrient uptake and help stimulate root activity — exactly what Bermudagrass needs as it exits dormancy.

Balanced nutrient profile: The 16-0-8 formula provides nitrogen for growth along with potassium to support overall turf health and stress tolerance.

 

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Boost Spring Green-Up with Micronutrients

If your Bermudagrass is waking up slowly or looks pale during early green-up, it may not just need nitrogen — it may also need micronutrients. Even when the major nutrients are present, deficiencies in elements like iron, manganese, or zinc can limit color and overall turf vigor.

One product designed to help with this is our Golf Course Lawn Micronutrient Blend.

This liquid formula provides a blend of essential micronutrients that support healthy turf metabolism and help improve leaf color and overall plant function during the spring transition. Because it’s applied as a liquid, the nutrients can be absorbed quickly through the leaf and root system, making it especially useful once the lawn has started actively growing.

Micronutrients help Bermudagrass by:

• Enhancing green color, particularly through iron and other trace elements

• Supporting enzyme activity involved in plant growth

• Improving nutrient uptake from the soil

• Helping turf recover from winter dormancy.

This type of supplement works best after the lawn has begun greening up, when the grass is actively taking in nutrients. It’s not meant to replace your regular fertilizer program, but it can be a helpful addition if you want to deepen color and support stronger growth as the lawn transitions into the growing season.

For homeowners looking to push their lawn from “starting to wake up” to rich, healthy green, micronutrients can be a simple but effective part of the spring lawn care program.

 

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Why Heavy Nitrogen Too Early Causes Problems

Applying large amounts of nitrogen before the lawn is ready can create several issues:

• Top growth before roots are active: The grass tries to grow blades without the root system to support them.

• Weed competition increases: Many spring weeds respond faster to fertilizer than dormant turf.

• Uneven green-up: Some areas grow quickly, while others remain dormant, resulting in a patchy lawn.

• Higher disease risk: Tender new growth can be more susceptible to fungal problems during cool spring weather.

In other words, rushing the process often backfires.

 

Related: The Best Lawn Fertilizers to Use This Spring 

 

Step 4: Pre-Emergent Timing is Critical

While you’re focused on waking up Bermudagrass after winter, weeds are getting ready to wake up, too. And if you miss the timing window, they’ll happily move into your lawn before Bermuda has filled in.

The biggest offender in spring is crabgrass.

Crabgrass seeds sit dormant in the soil all winter, waiting for the right conditions to germinate. Once soil temperatures reach the mid-50s for several days in a row, those seeds begin to sprout — often before Bermudagrass has fully greened up.

That’s why pre-emergent herbicides are one of the most important steps when you transition dormant Bermudagrass in spring.

A pre-emergent works by creating a protective barrier in the soil that prevents weed seeds from establishing roots after germination. If the barrier is in place before the weeds sprout, you prevent the problem entirely.

When Should You Apply Pre-Emergent?

Timing matters more than anything.

The ideal window is when:

• Soil temperatures reach about 55°F

• That temperature stays consistent for several days

• Before crabgrass germination begins.

In many southern regions, this happens a few weeks before Bermudagrass starts actively growing, which is why applying pre-emergent during early spring is so important.

If you wait until weeds appear, it’s already too late — pre-emergent products prevent germination but don’t kill existing weeds.

A simple soil thermometer can help you track this timing more accurately than relying on the calendar.

Liquid Pre-Emergent Option

One of the most popular professional-grade options is Prodiamine 65 WDG.

Prodiamine is widely used on golf courses and sports fields because it provides long-lasting control of many common lawn weeds, including:

• Crabgrass

• Goosegrass

• Poa annua

• Spurge

• Chickweed.

The WDG (water-dispersible granule) formulation is mixed with water and sprayed across the lawn. This allows for very precise application and flexible coverage, especially for larger lawns.

Another advantage is its long residual control, often preventing weeds for several months with a single application.

 

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Granular Pre-Emergent Option

If you prefer a spreader-based application, a granular product like Dimension 0-0-7 Pre-Emergent with Fertilizer is another great choice.

This product combines Dimension (dithiopyr) with a light fertilizer carrier. Dimension has a unique advantage compared to some other pre-emergent herbicides — it can control crabgrass shortly after germination, giving you a small safety window if your timing isn’t perfect.

The granular format makes it easy to apply with a broadcast spreader, which many homeowners prefer.

 

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Related: The Best Crabgrass Weed Killers That Won't Kill Turfgrass

 

Why Pre-Emergent Matters During Spring Green-Up

Early spring is when Bermudagrass is still thin and recovering from dormancy, making it more vulnerable to weed invasion. If weeds establish themselves during this stage, they compete with Bermuda for sunlight, nutrients, and water.

Once your Bermuda fully greens up and thickens later in the season, it naturally crowds out many weeds. But during the transition period, it needs a little help.

A properly timed pre-emergent:

• Prevents crabgrass before it starts

• Protects thin spring turf

• Reduces the need for post-emergent weed killers later

• Keeps your lawn cleaner while Bermuda fills in.

Pre-emergent herbicides target seed germination, not established turfgrass plants. Bermudagrass spreads through stolons and rhizomes, so it continues to green up and grow normally even after a pre-emergent application.

In fact, applying pre-emergent at the right time often leads to a cleaner, healthier Bermuda lawn once green-up is complete.

Step 5: Water Smart (Not More)

One of the most common mistakes in lawn care is overwatering. More water should mean faster growth, right?

Not in early spring.

At this stage, Bermudagrass roots are just starting to wake up, and the soil is still warming. Flooding the lawn with water doesn’t help the process — in fact, it can slow things down.

How Much Water Does Bermuda Need in Early Spring?

During the transition from dormancy, Bermudagrass needs far less water than during summer.

A good guideline is:

• About ½ inch of water per week if there’s no rainfall.

Many regions receive enough spring rain that irrigation may not be needed at all. Before turning on sprinklers, check your soil moisture — you might already have what the grass needs.

Deep, Infrequent Watering Is Best

When you water, the goal is to encourage deeper root growth.

Instead of watering a little every day, water deeply and let the soil dry slightly before the next irrigation. This approach helps Bermuda roots grow deeper into the soil, strengthening the lawn against summer heat.

Deep watering also improves:

• root development

• drought tolerance

• nutrient uptake.

Frequent shallow watering, on the other hand, keeps roots close to the surface and can weaken turf over time.

Avoid Soggy Soil

One of the biggest problems with overwatering in early spring is that wet soil warms much more slowly than dry soil.

Bermudagrass needs warm soil to wake up. When the ground stays saturated, the temperature remains lower, and root activity slows down.

Overly wet conditions can also lead to additional problems, including:

• fungal diseases

• poor root oxygen levels

• nutrient leaching

• compaction issues.

If your lawn feels spongy or squishy when you walk on it, it’s probably getting too much water.

Watch for Natural Rainfall

Spring weather is often unpredictable. Some weeks may bring several inches of rain, while others are completely dry.

Instead of sticking to a rigid irrigation schedule, adjust watering based on actual conditions. A simple rain gauge or moisture check with a screwdriver pushed into the soil can tell you whether irrigation is really necessary.

If the soil is still moist a few inches below the surface, skip the watering.

Step 6: Address Compaction If Needed

Even if you do everything else right — scalping, fertilizing at the right time, applying pre-emergent — soil compaction can still slow down Bermudagrass green-up.

Compacted soil is one of the most overlooked reasons lawns struggle to wake up in spring. When soil becomes dense and tightly packed, it restricts the movement of air, water, and nutrients through the root zone. That makes it much harder for Bermudagrass roots to grow and become active after winter dormancy.

In other words, if the roots can’t breathe, the grass can’t grow.

Signs Your Lawn May Be Compacted

Not every lawn needs aeration every year, but there are some clear warning signs that compaction may be holding your Bermuda back.

Watch for lawns that:

Feel hard underfoot: If the soil feels solid or difficult to push a screwdriver into, the ground is likely compacted.

Hold water after rain or irrigation: Water that sits on the surface instead of soaking in often indicates dense soil with poor infiltration.

Green up unevenly in spring: Areas that remain brown while other sections turn green can sometimes be caused by compacted soil restricting root activity.

Show thinning turf or weak growth: Grass struggling to spread or fill in may be dealing with limited root space.

Experience heavy foot traffic: Lawns with kids, pets, backyard gatherings, or frequent mowing can develop compaction over time.

Why Aeration Helps Bermudagrass

Aeration works by removing small plugs of soil from the lawn. These holes allow oxygen, water, and nutrients to penetrate deeper into the root zone.

For Bermudagrass, this can lead to:

• stronger root development

• improved nutrient absorption

• better water infiltration

• thicker, healthier turf over time.

Aeration also helps relieve soil pressure, giving roots room to spread and expand during the growing season.

When to Aerate Bermudagrass

Timing matters a lot when it comes to aeration.

For Bermudagrass, core aeration should always be done during active growth, when the grass can recover quickly and fill in the holes left behind.

The best timing is:

• After the lawn has reached 100% green-up

• Late spring through early summer

• When soil temperatures are consistently warm.

At this stage, Bermudagrass spreads aggressively through stolons and rhizomes, allowing it to recover rapidly from the aeration process.

Why You Should Avoid Aerating Dormant Lawns

Aerating while Bermudagrass is still dormant or partially dormant can cause more harm than good.

When the grass isn’t actively growing, it can’t repair itself quickly. The open holes created during aeration may linger for weeks, leaving the lawn vulnerable to weed invasion and stress.

Waiting until the lawn is fully awake ensures the turf can heal quickly and take advantage of improved soil conditions to grow thicker and stronger.

Think of Aeration as a Mid-Spring Tune-Up

Aeration isn’t always necessary for every lawn every year, but when compaction is present, it can make a noticeable difference in turf health.

Once your Bermudagrass is fully green and actively growing, aeration acts like a spring tune-up for the root system, helping the lawn take full advantage of warmer weather, fertilizer, and irrigation.

And when the roots are happy, the grass above them usually follows.

Why Some Bermudagrass Lawns Green Up Slower

If you’ve ever looked across the street and wondered why your neighbor’s lawn is already deep green while yours still looks like winter never ended, you’re not alone.

The truth is, Bermudagrass rarely wakes up at exactly the same time in every yard. Even within the same neighborhood, small environmental differences can delay the green-up process by a few weeks.

If your lawn seems to be lagging behind, there’s usually a specific reason. Here are some of the most common factors that slow down spring transition.

Shade Exposure

Bermudagrass is a full-sun turfgrass. It thrives in areas that receive at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day.

Lawns with significant shade from trees, fences, or buildings tend to warm up more slowly in spring. Since soil temperature drives Bermudagrass growth, shaded areas often stay cooler longer, delaying green-up.

You’ll often notice shaded sections of the lawn turning green a week or two later than areas in full sun.

Heavy Clay Soil

Clay soils are common across many Bermudagrass regions, but they come with one challenge: they warm up more slowly than sandy or loamy soils.

Dense clay also tends to hold water longer, which can keep the soil cooler and restrict root activity. If your lawn has heavy clay soil, the spring transition may take a bit longer.

Improving soil structure over time with aeration, organic matter, or soil amendments can help reduce this issue.

Excess Thatch

Thatch is the layer of dead stems, roots, and organic material that builds up between the soil and the living grass blades.

A small amount of thatch is normal, but when the layer becomes too thick — usually over about ½ inch — it can act like insulation. Instead of allowing the soil to warm quickly in spring, it traps moisture and slows down temperature changes.

Excess thatch can also interfere with water and nutrient movement, making it harder for Bermudagrass to wake up fully.

Poor Fertility the Previous Season

Sometimes slow spring green-up is actually the result of how the lawn was managed the previous year.

Bermudagrass stores energy in its root system and rhizomes before entering dormancy. If the lawn didn’t receive enough nutrients during the growing season, it may enter winter with weaker reserves.

That can lead to:

• slower spring recovery

• thinner turf during green-up

• uneven growth.

A well-fed lawn during summer and early fall usually transitions out of dormancy more quickly the following spring.

Late Fall Nitrogen Applications

Applying nitrogen fertilizer too late in the season can keep Bermudagrass active longer than it should before winter.

When that late growth gets hit by cold temperatures, the grass may enter dormancy in a weaker state. This can sometimes lead to slower or patchier green-up the following spring.

Proper fall fertilization timing helps Bermuda shut down gradually and store energy for the next growing season.

North-Facing Slopes

The direction your lawn faces can also affect how quickly it warms up.

North-facing slopes receive less direct sunlight during late winter and early spring, keeping soil temperatures cooler for longer. These areas often green up later than lawns facing south or west, where sunlight hits more directly throughout the day.

Sometimes the Cause Started Last Fall

In many cases, the speed of spring green-up depends on how well the lawn was managed the previous fall and summer. Healthy Bermudagrass that went into dormancy with strong roots, balanced fertility, and minimal stress almost always wakes up faster than turf that struggled the year before.

So if your lawn takes a little longer to transition, don’t panic. Often it’s just responding to environmental conditions — and with good lawn care practices throughout the season, it will usually catch up once warm weather fully arrives.

 

Related: The Science Behind Spring Green Up: Why Some Grasses Take Longer to Turn Green 

 

Bermuda Green Up FAQs

How long does it take for Bermudagrass to green up fully in spring?

Once soil temperatures consistently reach 65°F, Bermudagrass usually completes its spring transition within 3–6 weeks. The exact timing depends on weather patterns, sunlight exposure, and how healthy the lawn was going into winter. Lawns with good fertility and full sun often green up faster than shaded or compacted areas.

Can cold snaps turn Bermudagrass brown again after it starts greening up?

Yes. If Bermudagrass begins greening up and a late frost or cold snap occurs, the tender new growth can temporarily discolor or stall. In most cases, the grass will recover once temperatures warm again, but repeated cold events can delay the transition.

Should I mow Bermudagrass more often during spring green-up?

Yes — once the lawn begins actively growing, frequent mowing helps encourage thicker turf. Bermudagrass spreads through stolons and rhizomes, and regular mowing stimulates lateral growth. During the early part of the season, mowing every 5–7 days is usually ideal, depending on growth rate.

Is it normal for Bermudagrass to green up unevenly?

Completely normal. Bermudagrass often greens up in patches at first, especially in areas with slight differences in sunlight, soil moisture, or soil temperature. As the season progresses and temperatures stabilize, these areas typically fill in and even out.

Will iron help Bermudagrass green up faster in spring?

Iron can improve color once the grass is actively growing, but it won’t wake up dormant Bermudagrass. Iron supplements work best after the lawn has reached at least 50–70% green-up and the plant is actively taking in nutrients.

Should I overseed Bermudagrass if it’s still brown in spring?

Generally, no. Bermudagrass spreads aggressively once warm weather arrives, so overseeding is rarely necessary. In most cases, patience and proper spring care will allow the grass to fill in naturally as soil temperatures increase.

What soil temperature triggers Bermudagrass growth?

Bermudagrass typically begins transitioning out of dormancy when soil temperatures reach 60–65°F. Germination of weeds like crabgrass happens earlier, around 55°F, which is why pre-emergent timing is so important.

You Don’t Force Bermuda — You Coach It

Everyone wants that first bright green lawn in the neighborhood. But when it comes to Bermudagrass, the secret isn’t forcing it — it’s setting the stage for it to wake up naturally.

Focus on the fundamentals: clean up winter debris, time your scalp properly, apply pre-emergent before weeds take over, fertilize only when the grass is ready, and avoid overwatering cold soil. These simple steps help your lawn transition out of dormancy smoothly and evenly.

Bermudagrass may sleep through winter, but once conditions are right, it doesn’t just wake up — it takes off.

Do the prep work now, and before long, that brown winter lawn will turn into the thick, vibrant green turf Bermuda is famous for.

Want your Bermuda lawn to wake up faster and stay thick all season? Using the right products at the right time makes all the difference. Browse our professional-grade fertilizers, pre-emergents, and lawn care products. For step-by-step lawn care tips, check out the Golf Course Lawn YouTube channel, where Ron shares real strategies from the field.